Carrigain Loop FKT "This was Plan D" by Ben Nephew

FKT date: September 17th, 2016
Location: White Mountain National Forest, NH
Adventure: Carrigain Loop FKT, 13 Miles, 4,000 feet elevation gain

This was plan D, and what a fine plan it turned out to be. I had originally planned a longer run on Sunday, with a similarly long plan B that was not as exposed if the forecast was grim. Plan C was for Carrigain on Sunday. The forecast for Sunday did look quite bad, with rain and high winds (50-70mph), and the possibility of thunderstorms. My conference at Waterville Valley ended at noon on Saturday, so I figured I should just head to Carrigain before the storm rolled in. I had never even hiked Carrigain before, but it has been on my list of things to do for a while based on trip accounts and photos. There is one obvious loop around the mountain that hits two major ridges on the mountain, and I decided to head out the Carrigain Notch trail, up the Desolation Trail (aptly named), and down Signal Ridge back to Carrigain Notch.

The start on Carrigain Notch is technical at first due a recent trail reroute, but this makes the more runnable section following a pleasant surprise where you can really stretch the legs out. Since I had been expecting a longer effort, I was fully rested and was able to maintain a solid pace over the first 3-4 miles. There is a small hill around 4 miles that is a nice change of pace and warmup for the big climb around the corner. The far side of the loop has some technical sections, but nothing that really restricts the pace. Overall, the first 6 miles is one of the longest stretches of fast singletrack I have encountered in the Whites. That all ends on the Desolation trail.

For the first mile, the trail is not all that intimidating and lured me into a hard effort where I could run much of this section. In hindsight, this may have not been such a good idea. When this moderately inclined mile ends, you veer to the right, and the trail comes from around the corner and hits you in the face. There are steeper trails in the Whites, but the next mile is as steep as the Wildcat Ridge and the first mile at Cannon, covering 1600 feet of vertical over technical, off-camber trail. Despite the afternoon start and the ongoing drought, this north facing staircase of darkness was still wet. This is a long, slow mile that never seems to end until you suddenly see the summit tower through a narrow gap in the trees. The contrast between the tight wooded and the expansive summit views is intense, similar to the summit of Osceola or Giant in the Adirondacks. It is more of an altar to the mountain gods than a summit tower, complete with deadly back-less stairs to sacrifice unwilling hikers. Incredible views surround you; Crawford Notch, the Presidential Range, the Pemi loop, the Sandwich Range, you are in the middle of all of it. One could hang out quite a while taking it all in, and I actually did stop to take several photos. I typically prefer to just focus on the effort of moving fast over challenging terrain, but that was definitely worth it. 

It was also not a bad idea to get myself together after the effort up Desolation and before the descent of Shattered, I mean Signal, Ridge. There is no rest on that thing if you want to survive. The footing is as bad as the Northern Presidentials with the added challenge of dense forest on either side of the jagged, narrow, ankle destroying trail. There are no real options for different lines, just straight down the gauntlet. Every time it seems like the trail is going to ease up on you, you turn the corner to another line of White Mountain IED’s. The exposed section that provides dramatic views into the Carrigain Notch is relatively runnable, though. Shattered Ridge does finally let up, right at the bottom, and by that time your legs are mostly wasted for the two mile run back to the trailhead. The soak in Whiteface Brook after the run helped with that. At around 14 miles with 4100’ of climb, this is not a massive route, but it is an intense combination of fast running, steep climbing, and technical descending that is a great addition to the shorter White Mountain FKT’s, and the trip is worth it solely for the views.

Recommended

Reflections on Long-Term Peak Bagging – The Grid & 420 Summits by Mike Siudy

There are 35 high peaks in the Catskill Mountains that are above 3,500ft elevation. People that summit all 35, plus 4 of them in winter, can become “Catskill 35ers“. For most people that is enough.  am not one of those people.

Around 9:40 am on July 31, 2011 I ran across the summit of Windham High Peak. It was my 164th Catskill peak. As an avid hiker, that in itself wasn’t anything special, what was interesting though is it was my first Catskill ascent in summer. I was running the Escarpment Trail Race and would soon cross over Blackhead Mtn. on my way to a 6th place finish in the 18.6 mile race. It was soon after this day that I decided to focus on completing “the grid”.

FullSizeRender.jpg

My first hike in the Catskills was in early June 1997. A friend of mine, Jody Barton, had suggested going for a hike. We did Twin and Indian Head. The following week we did the Blackhead range. Her mother who was an Adirondack 46er and Catskill 35er suggested that I record the dates of the ascents. Prior to this I was unaware that these hiking lists or clubs even existed so I jotted down the dates and mountain names on a piece of paper and put it into the bag with my newly acquired maps.

Over the next 10 years I didn’t do very much hiking as I had devoted most of my time to rock climbing. But with college friends Brian Titone, Scott Kapeller, Jon Curran, and others I had casually racked up a grand total of 15 summits.

FullSizeRender.jpg

In February 2006 I got a call from a rock climbing friend Dave Leahy asking if I wanted to go snowshoeing in the Adirondacks. We went up Algonquin and Wrights Peak in full on winter, white-out conditions. It was my first time on snowshoes in the mountains and I had a blast. By late 2006 I was looking for something to do in the winter (besides ice climbing which I didn’t care for) once rock climbing season was over.

I decided to attempt to hike the remaining 20 Catskill peaks during the winter and finish the requirements to join the 3500 club.

FullSizeRender.jpg

I did nine peaks that winter and the remaining 11 the following year finishing my 35 with my dog Chewbacca in January 2008 on Rocky Mountain. I was really starting to enjoy exploring the mountains of the Catskills, seeing places that not many people go, particularly on the “off trail” peaks. Since I now had 20 peaks done in winter the next logical step was to hike the remaining 15 in winter. I finished my first “winter round” in January 2009 on Big Indian Mountain with Andrew Zalewski.

In the meantime, I began hiking in the Adirondacks as well. A couple of rock climbing injuries had become troublesome and I needed something else to do with myself year round. Over the summers of 2008 and 2009 I hiked most of the Adirondack 46 eventually finishing on Whiteface Mountain in November 2009. I then had a very intense winter hiking 41 of the Adirondack High Peaks in that season finishing the winter 46 on Iroquois in March 2010.

I was continuing to hike in the Catskills, finishing my second, then third complete rounds of the 35. My wife Tara and dog Chewbacca had become 35ers, Tara doing a winter round as well. I began making different lists to try and complete.  Like doing all the peaks in one calendar year, then all the peaks in one winter season. I hiked all the peaks solo too.

FullSizeRender.jpg

During the summer of 2010, I began to do a lot of trail running in the Shawangunks so that I could complete a marathon. This would qualify me for the Escarpment race. I also started running the trails in the Catskills for training, which allowed me to do longer days, up to 25 miles, and get a lot of peaks done quickly. I’m not sure exactly when I heard that doing the grid was a thing but only after my first Escarpment race did I consider it.

The “grid” is the name given to the feat of summiting all 35 Catskill peaks in all 12 months of the year cumulatively over a lifetime. The name likely comes from the appearance of the chart or spreadsheet used to track the ascents. There are various kinds of grids, like seasonal, weekly, and even daily, but the monthly grid seems to be the standard. In the Catskills 35 x 12 = 420 summits.

On paper it is the easiest grid in the Northeast. The Adirondack grid is 46 x 12 for 552 summits and the White Mountain grid is 48 x 12 for a total of 576. However, anyone that has hiked in the Catskills, particularly in summer, knows how thick the woods can be off trail. 13 of the 35 peaks do not have maintained paths to their summits. 10 of them are true bushwhacks requiring careful navigation to not get lost. Even though the hikes are shorter and the peaks are lower, the Catskills present their own set of special challenges.

FullSizeRender.jpg

By the summer of 2011, I had all but stopped rock climbing. My time was entirely devoted to running and hiking. That year I made 54 ascents of Catskill summits and began to make a concerted effort to fill in the blanks on my grid. 2012 was the first year I hiked all the Catskill peaks at least twice with 91 total summits. Two knee surgeries in 2013 limited me to 77 summits. After rehab, 2014 became, and is still by far, my most prolific year of hiking with 106 summits, all peaks at least twice, 10 of them at least four times. I slowed a little in 2015 “only” summiting 89 peaks.  Along the way, there have been many repeats in the same month. For example, I have done Windham and Blackhead in July at least five times apiece during the Escarpment Race. I have also done Blackhead, Indian Head, Twin, Sugarloaf, and Plateau at least three times in June during the Manitou’s Revenge Ultramarathon.

At the beginning of 2016, I had 404 of the required 420 peaks. Six of the remaining 14 summits were two of my least favorite mountains, North Dome and Sherrill, in May, July and August (It’s worth mentioning that as I’m writing this my computer has auto corrected North Dome to North “dumb”). These two are just tough, they’re off trail, extremely thick, and during the summer stinging nettles grow about 4 feet high, plus the hobblebush is brutal. I needed to wear nylon rain pants on a couple of hot, humid days so I did not get stung and scratched by prickers.

I did my final 8 peaks in August, finally completing the grid on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 on the summit of Balsam Lake Mountain. I chose this peak for my finish because the fire tower there gives some of the nicest views anywhere in the park, and it isn’t a particularly hard hike.

IMG_0785.JPG

All in all, it took me 606 summits over 19 years (475 in the past 5.5 years) to get the 420 in the correct months. The mountain I have summitted the most is Blackhead with 27, the least is Fir with just 12. I would pick Halcott as my least favorite and probably Rocky as my most favorite due to its remoteness. My favorite long day is doing the “Catskill 9” and my favorite view is probably on Wittenberg, although the abundant litter up there detracts from the experience.

FullSizeRender.jpg

What now? I will definitely continue to hike, run, and ski in the Catskills but now I don’t have to do any peaks that I don’t want to. There are a number of lists that I haven’t completed yet. I am attempting to run and ski all the peaks, and to bushwhack all of the mountains that DO have trails. I am casually working on the Catskill hundred highest, the New York State fire towers, and some other lists. I’ll stay busy.

Thanks to everyone I’ve ever hiked or ran with, you are far too numerous to list, but it was always a blast!  Because I hike and run alone so often, I cherish the time I’m out there with other people.

Happy trails. Mike

Pemi Loop Adventure!

Date: September 17th, 2016
Location: Pemigewasset Wilderness, NH
Adventure: Pemi Loop, 31 Miles, 10,000 feet elevation gain

Saturday 7 am - Eric, Ned and myself set out to hike / run the Pemi Loop in New Hampshire's Pemigewasset Wilderness. We brought enough water knowing there was a hut at mile 18 and enough food for 10 hours or so. We had planned to start earlier but at 7 am we were well past sunrise. We still decided to bring head lamps and warm clothes just in case. This proved wise!

We made good time climbing the peaks going clockwise until we hit Garfield. Heading down from Garfield we made a wrong turn and ended up going 3 miles downhill only to then turn around and go back up those 3 miles and add in 2,000 feet of elevation. Certainly demoralizing at the time but we came together and pushed through to get to the hut which was about 6.5 miles of mostly rocky uphill until we got to the hut. We got some soup and regrouped.

We made the climb up south twin then had some nice sunset ridge running along Mt Bond and Bondcliff. We rested on Bondcliff eating and enjoying the view before the final 9 miles downhill, mostly in the dark. We finished with 36 plus miles and 12,000 feet in just over 13 hours. Trail running has its highs and lows and we certainly were reminded of that yesterday. But as a group we were prepared and helped each other along the way to make it a very memorable trip! 

FullSizeRender.jpg
FullSizeRender.jpg
FullSizeRender.jpg
FullSizeRender.jpg

Karl Meltzer breaks the Appalachian Trail Speed Record!

Karl Meltzer just completed the 2,190 mile Appalachian Trail in record time, 45 days, 22 hours, 38 minutes, beating Scott Jurek's 2015 record by 9 hours 30 minutes! Congratulations to Karl and his team! Check out some of the notes and stats from his 45 days on the trail, click here!

Hanging with Karl before the crowd arrived at Bear Mountain, New York, awaiting Scott Jurek to arrive during his 2015 AT record breaking attempt! 

Hanging with Karl before the crowd arrived at Bear Mountain, New York, awaiting Scott Jurek to arrive during his 2015 AT record breaking attempt! 

Notable Appalachian Records

  • 2015 - Heather Anderson, unsupported - 54 days, 7 hours, 48 minutes (Maine to Georgia).
  • 2011 - Jennifer Phar Davis 46 days, supported, 11 hours, 20 minutes (Maine to Georgia).
  • 2005 - Andrew Thompson, supported, 47 days, 12 hours, 31 minutes (Maine to Georgia).
  • 1999 - Pete Palmer 48 days, 20 hours, 11 minutes (Maine to Georgia).
  • 1991 - David Horton 52 days, 9 hours, 42 minutes (Maine to Georgia).
  • 2013 - Matt Kirk fasted unsupported thru hike style 58 days, 9 hours, 38 min. (Maine to Georgia).
  • 1993 - Jenny Jardine & her Husband, 87 days.
  • 1955, 60 & 63 - Emma "Grandma" Gatewood, she was 67, 69 & 75 years old on her final hike of the AT that she completed in sections.

If you were to attempt the AT, where would you start your adventure from - South (Springer Mountain, GA) or North (Mount Katahdin, ME)?

Recomended

All FKT reports

The 2016 Escarpment Trail Run "The 40th Running of the Mountain Goats!"

The 2016 Escarpment Trail Run "The 40th Running of the Mountain Goats!"

Today (Sunday the 31st) was the 40th running of the Escarpment 18.6 Mile Trail Run. We had pouring rain and slick conditions, but with the hearty souls that toed the line and the volunteers the braved the conditions, the 40th running of the Escarpment Trail Race was an epic success!

Documenting a Presidential Traverse FKT by Ben Nephew

Documenting a Presidential Traverse FKT by Ben Nephew

A few weeks ago, I received an email from Rufus Frost asking me if I was interested in being involved in the filming of a FKT attempt on the  18.4 mile Presidential Traverse. They thought the idea of an FKT attempt would be a good fit for a World of Adventure episode on Outside TV, as well as provide good footage for a Subaru ad.

Race Report: Manitou's Revenge Take 3!!! by Mike Siudy

Race Report: Manitou's Revenge Take 3!!! by Mike Siudy

Manitou’s Revenge is the best race in the world for me. Tough terrain, tons of climbing (+/- 16,000 ft) and a long enough distance (54 miles) to be able to go slow and steady. In other words, very little running. After last years time of 13:14, I was excited to see what I could do with very dry trails and the forecasted low humidity.

Quick Recap from the 2016 Manitou's Revenge 54 Mile Ultra

Quick Recap from the 2016 Manitou's Revenge 54 Mile Ultra

Race day is when you plan for all of your hard work and preparation to come together. It takes a lot of courage and commitment to even get to the starting line of any ultra endurance event. Some days you have the race of your life, while others don’t go quite as planned. This weekend was a perfect example of that.

Video: 2016 Breakneck Point Trail Runs

Here is our video of the 2nd running of the Breakneck Point Trail Runs in Hudson Highlands State Park, New York. This race is organized by Red Newt Racing and is the 1st of several awesome races on there schedule for 2016. Video by Joe Azze.

Race Report: "Smoke Free Rock the Ridge 50" by Lisa Glick

Race Report: "Smoke Free Rock the Ridge 50" by Lisa Glick

This year I was fortunate to be able to participate in the Rock the Ridge mile Endurance challenge at the Mohonk Preserve. In 2014 this was my first 50 miler. I registered in 2015 but had to defer because of Plantar Fasciitis. It was a long journey for my recovery so the word GRATITUDE can’t even describe my feelings being able to train and participate this year.